Indonesia Surf Trip

The fly in over the Telos was sweet – I’m certain the pilot was joyriding as he wheeled over the paradise that lay below us. We had our face plastered against the window trying to find the best-looking waves from the air. The boat ride to the resort was full of anticipation for the waves to come that afternoon. One of the guys, Adam, said we would have a very quick turn around to get out there in the afternoon. After a brief lunch and orientation, we suited up, waxed our boards, screwed in fins, and hopped in the boat. I thought we might start off with something mellow, considering it was our first day but Adam had something different in mind…

Pinnacles is a right that breaks past a point composed of incredible rock formations and lush jungle. As you can see, these waves were like small houses moving through the water with incredible volume. After a couple heart-stopping looks over the lip, I dropped into my first wave and promptly wiped out -- I realized it wasn’t as bad as I expected. The next big came, I was able to get up and began to recall how much I love the feeling of flying down the face of a wave. Finished up the day with a nice mojito.

Our second day I woke up at 5a and couldn’t fall back asleep because I was excited for my first full day of surfing. I chilled in the predawn light outside and waited for the sun to come up and grabbed some amazing breakfast. At 6:45a we packed up our stuff, loaded it in the boat, and hopped in. We had to navigate some pretty ugly weather as a storm chased us from behind the whole way south

But then we stopped at a spot benignly named Coffins. Coffins turned out to be an incredible, perfect, smooth right that swung way wide out into the channel and reared up from head to head and a half height to give you some incredible speed down the face. Surfing backside on big waves is hard to do but I’ve gotten very good at grabbing the rail as I drop in. This was the most incredible day of surfing I’ve ever had (and I was wearing the Red Jupiter FH Boardies!).

On the way back, we watched our guide catch some squid with a special lure and hook. He caught ten in about 5 minutes, and they inked all over the place. When we got back, we played a few games of pool, had a piña colada, ate some incredible seafood that was caught by people on the island (including those squid), then called it a night at about 8:15. Pretty unreal lifestyle!

After an unfortunately small three days (small by Indo standards, but come on! We flew halfway around the world to surf giants!), the last day promised to be better, and it was. We hopped on the boat and went to a place called Bum Cracks, aptly named for the right and left reef breaks separated by a deep channel. When the swell died, we moved to wear it all began, Pinnacles, and surfed our last Indonesian waves.

It was an incredible experience that I will remember for the rest of my life. I am so thankful for the opportunity, and pumped that I got to rep Fair Harbor on the other side of the world!

Sea's the Day!
Written by: Will Holding

caroline danehy